WASHINGTON, D.C. -- As women across the globe rally in support of International Women's Day  on Tuesday, Mar. 8, James Opie has announced expansion plans for his eight-year-old Afghan Rug Project -- a program designed to socially and economically empower women weavers in Afghanistan. 

Indeed, the goals of Opie's project are not unlike those of Women for Women International (WWI), a charity championed by International Women's Day supporters for its help of marginalized women in war torn countries, particularly Afghanistan. While WWI has helped nearly half a million women worldwide and about 50,000 in Afghanistan, Opie's program laser-focuses on 300-plus female weavers he directly helps with what he calls the "gift of exchange" rather than charity.  In short, he uses rug making as an avenue to foster independence for Afghan women.

 

A WORKABLE MODEL OF EXCHANGE

Asked what he means by the "gift of exchange," Opie explains: "In a charity situation you are giving something and you hope it helps: you hope everything works out okay. Our government has given away a lot in Afghanistan but it is not obvious that it has helped or that we got anything for our money. You have to ask, 'did it help the people?'"

"My business model is based on exchange instead of charity, because when the money runs out, a charity program is over. The Afghan Rug Project is intended to last. We've established a model of exchange that is working: Everyone involved benefits according to their business and their needs - the weavers, the shipper, the producers, the U.S. Government (which charges duty), the Oriental rug dealers who sell the rugs, and the consumers who buy them."

Several Afghan Rug Project patterns feature traditional bird images from southern Iran. Shown, JO-032 Khamseh Bird Rug. 

THE POLITICS OF REMAINING APOLITICAL

When queried as to whether conducting his program in villages overrun with Taliban is a gamble, Opie asserts it is not. "Our commitment is to the weavers and not to politics. Weaving has been so deeply embedded in Afghan culture for centuries, that while the Taliban continue to restrict the rights of women and children, weavers tend to be left alone. 

"Although many Afghans are out working in poppy fields or among masses of refugees, female carpet-makers can remain in their villages, at home with their children, so long as there is a continued demand for their rugs. 

"The Taliban are not targeting weavers, the export of rugs, trucks filled with rugs, or the producers. There is not a single incident of Taliban interference with weavers. Telling Afghans to stop weaving would almost be like telling them, 'Sorry, starting next month you can't eat.'"  

Due to the political climate, however, and the lack of women's rights in Afghanistan, Opie's project aims to help struggling women thrive self-sufficiently without reliance on a fickle government, hard labor in the poppy fields, or charity. 

 The Afghan Rug Project allows hundreds of female carpet-makers to remain in their villages, work at home with their families and to thrive self-sufficiently without charity. 

THE WEAVERS

Amazingly, Opie has circumnavigated religious differences among his weavers with two branches of his project. In one, the weavers are Hazaras who are Shiites; in the other, they are Turkmen who are Sunnis. "They are working with me cooperatively in this project and they know it. It's a very harmonious situation," Opie reports. 

Though idealistic in many respects, The Afghan Rug Project also balances a practical give and take. The essential purpose is to help village women in Afghanistan connect with a market they could never access by themselves in the U.S. and Europe. They need jobs, but they also need guidance regarding what to weave. Opie provides designs to what are known as "producers," who in turn hand the designs forward to the weavers along with the dyed wool.  

Classical designs from urban weaving centers add to the "tribal core" of James Opie's Collection and the Afghan Rug Project.  Shown, JO-080 Tabriz. 

OVERCOMING GROWTH BARRIERS

Though his model is succeeding, Opie says until now he hasn't worked hard enough to expand the project. Helping women weavers achieve financial stability has been his primary goal, and as a result, The Afghan Rug Project is more social enterprise than profit-driven business. 

Though passionately embraced by a cache of luxury rug stores, the program needs to expand to remain viable. "I don't take a salary; I am subsidizing the program, but not indefinitely. The scale of the enterprise has to expand in order to sustain itself, and in the next year or two we will need to advance our sales by 50 percent," Opie explains.  

EXPANDING MARKET SHARE

In order to grow the business, The Afghan Rug Project needs to grow in global awareness. Opie has been working with a team of communications majors at American University in Washington D.C. on a new website that promotes the humanitarian aspects of the project. The name James Opie will not appear on the new Afghan Rug Project website, which will debut shortly.  

He is toying with the idea of adding an e-commerce component, but is adamant about protecting his dealers with completely different designs. "I will continue selling Afghan rugs through my wholesale business under the James Opie label. If The Afghan Project does get into e-commerce, the website would offer small rugs and runners so that the prices ($250 and up) will engage a larger number of people in the humanitarian aspect of this program."

ADVANCING THE NARRATIVE

Purchasing rugs made by women in the Afghan Rug Project makes a real difference in their lives, both in terms of economic independence and self-esteem.

"We have to advance the narrative. We obviously can't identify the weavers by name or in photos because of the Taliban, but we will tell their stories online and explain how a purchase of one of these rugs can really make a difference. If consumers in the West can take more interest in projects by artisans in vulnerable countries, we can grow the model."

"Afghanistan's population is not so enormous that the world at large cannot find ways to cooperate in keeping Afghan women working, in their villages, in their homes, near their children. This is where the Afghan Rug Project comes in: Not out in the poppy fields; not accepting Taliban hand-outs; not forcing them to become refugees again. Working at home, weaving, and being paid living wages. For as long as they are hired to do so, these families will weave, no matter what the political situation may be."  

MULTI-CULTURAL WEAVING SKILLS

"With the Russian invasion and war, for example, the Russians were determined to impose Communism, violating Afghanistan's religious and societal norms. The combination of war and foreign doctrines drove millions of Afghans to leave the country, taking up residence in camps in Pakistan and Iran. In Pakistan they transformed the weaving industry, as I saw with my own eyes. In Iran, they contributed to it." 

"Now skilled Afghan weavers, tested and tried by the extraordinary stresses they have endured, are home again and the only thing driving them to become refugees once again is the lack of employment."  

 
James Opie began his career by visiting Shiraz in 1970 and tribal rugs from this region are often favored in his Project. Shown, JO-073 Khamseh.   

WOMEN RUG DEALERS WHO 'GET IT'  

Two strong proponents of The Afghan Rug Project and the beauty and quality of James Opie's rugs are dealers Mildred "Millie" Josephine Keir of Josephine Keir Ltd. Home, based in Lewes, Del., and Holly Peters of Holly Peters Oriental Rugs in Kennett Square, Penn. 

"The fact that these dealers are women makes a difference. They have good hearts. They see that Afghan women with very hard lives, who are subjected to indignities, are not going to work in poppy fields because of this social enterprise," Opie says. 

Millie Keir, in business for 28 years, has made it a point to support co-ops, small workshops, and village weaving endeavors that benefit their communities. "It is a win-win situation for retailers and for our customers because they are getting not just a floor covering, but a work of art.  It speaks volumes about the need to support these artisans. The consumer gets a work of art, and it truly is. In Jim's case he is very particular, and their work is superb." 

"The weavers benefit because they make beautiful products for which they are well paid. Our client base is very supportive of Jim's rug productions. They understand the importance of it. We are all very passionate about it. The rugs themselves are just works of art," Keir told RugNews.com. 

IN-STORE AFGHAN RUG PROJECT EVENT 

On April 15, James Opie will appear at a special event promoting The Afghan Rug Project at Holly Peters Oriental Rugs. "I met James Opie in the 1990s and he is one of my favorite people. He is very interesting and very committed to helping his weavers," Peters explained, adding, "I have built quite a following for Jim's rugs."